2004 “Tim, I can’t believe we’re finally back here.” It was all I could say as I waded through the waters. Knee-high, they lapped coolly against my bare thighs, fresh and anchoring me in the stark reality of this moment. It was every bit as sunny and picturesque as the last time we had made the mile-long crossing, several years before. Weaving through the reeds and willows as I finally hit dry land again, I climbed the hu...